Peru and Chile revive controversy over the origin of pisco

Peru and Chile revived their long-standing controversy over the origin and use of the name pisco, a spirit produced in both nations under different standards, after the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recognized the authenticity of the oldest proof of production of the drink in documents found in Peruvian archives.

The Chilean authorities, however, assure that the agency’s designation does not in any way affect their intentions to use the name to identify their own distillate.

“We guard the first testimonies of this, our flagship drink, (…) they are the first productions of grape brandy, which were developed here in our country,” said the head of the General Archive of the Nation, Nicolás Díaz Sánchez, during the ceremony of the UNESCO Memory of the World regional registry in Lima.

The oldest document is a letter from 1587 about the payment of materials for the production of brandy. Another is a deed from 1589 for the export of the product from the port of Pisco. Also included were a will from Manuel de Azante, from 1605, which represents the first record of a boiler to distill the drink, and another from Pedro Manuel el Griego, in 1613, which includes production elements.

Sánchez announced that he will seek to increase recognition of his inscription in UNESCO’s International Memory of the World Registry and mentioned that more finds are being prepared.

“(Our historians) have given me news, we are going to continue investigating, that we may have older documents,” commented the head of the National Archive.

The day before, Chile had questioned the certification granted to the Peruvian drink.

“Peruvians are stubborn” criticized the Chilean Minister of Agriculture, Esteban Valenzuela, who reiterated that Chile considers that both countries can use the name pisco and that it will support the “Chilean Pisco Wine Cultural Landscape” project, which seeks include Chilean pisco on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

The Chilean Foreign Ministry alleged that the registration of these Peruvian documents in a UNESCO registry “does not grant intellectual property rights or exclusivity over designations of origin.” It refers to the quality seal associated with the origin of a product, backed by international agreements, which allow it to use the name pisco.

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