It’s barely dawn when Magnolia Ordoñez sets sail on a small boat with her husband, the captain, and her companions, all women. Their mission: to find and collect pianguas, a species of mollusk that lives among the roots of mangroves in the Colombian Pacific.
Collecting the pianguas is not an easy task. First of all, they must find the right place to anchor the boat, always different from the last harvest, to ensure that the mangrove remains healthy and continues producing. Upon arrival, Magnolia jumps off the boat with agility and scales a slippery mud wall. He enters the forest, jumping and dodging the long aerial roots with the dexterity of someone who knows the terrain well. Once inside, she lights a type of incense to scare away the mosquitoes and, concentrated, takes a moment to sing to the mangroves, in a ritual of deep respect to ask their permission before collecting their food.
After thanking them for his treasures, he dives into the mudwhich sometimes reaches above the knees. With patience and care, he unearths one by one the pianguas that cross his hands. With each shell he removes, he checks its size. “The babies have to be returned,” Magnolia says firmly, returning those that have not yet matured to the mud. Thus she continues with her laborious task, aware of her race against time and the rising tide that will soon cover the mangrove.
After a few hours of arduous harvesting in a job that could easily be an Olympic sport, he returns to shore. It’s time to clean the pianguas, save some for the market and to sell in your online store, and deliver the rest to your sisters in the kitchen.
a delicacy
Pianguas are known for their unique flavor and are used in a variety of traditional recipes, such as ceviches, encocados (coconut stews), and rice dishes. They are considered a delicacy in the region and appreciated in the rest of Colombia.. Nothing is wasted: even their shells later become handicraftss.
Once the cooks finish, the dishes are served in communal restaurants, forming a work chain led by women. All of them are part of the Raíces del Manglar association, and all are victims of the conflict that plagued Colombia for more than 50 years.
“The piangua is born from the same mangrove. It is vitamin, it has iron, it has calcium, but it also cries, sings, laughs, dances, it is something magical and charming that at the same time feeds us. That’s why we want to protect not only her, but the mangrove and the sea that are a source of life and all that food she brings us takes care of us and connects us all,” says Magnolia.
Mangrove Roots is one of 40 green partnerships and initiatives that the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), he Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development of ColombiaSIRAP Pacífico and other partners who support through the project Biocultural Pacificfinanced by the Global Environment Facility (GEF).
The project works to conserve the biodiversity and unique practices of the Colombian Pacific region, empowering local communities and supporting environmental governance in protected areas. Through restoration, training and capacity development, resource provision and knowledge sharingFAO and its partners protect the environment and build resilient livelihoodsrecognizing the deep connection between nature and culture in the Colombian Pacific.
Crucial role in the fight against climate change
This connection is especially vibrant on the coast. Emerald forests meet black sand beaches, and the sky and sea teem with life, from majestic birds to vibrant estuaries. Intricate mangrove labyrinths around small islands are home to not only pianguas, but also various species of food sources of commercial and nutritional importance, such as fish, crabs and other mollusks.
Beyond its beauty, this wild coast plays a crucial role in the fight against climate change. Vast forests and mangroves capture carbon and protect coastlines from erosion. It is also a region with an exceptional cultural heritage, home to Afro-descendant and indigenous communities whose traditions reflect a deep connection to the land. However, these communities face persistent challenges due to poverty, conflict and illegal activities, which threaten their livelihoods and ecosystem health.
“Afro-descendant, indigenous and peasant communities are actively working with us to protect and restore the environment and strengthen local governance,” explains Feder Angulo, local facilitator of the FAO project in Tumaco, Department of Nariño. “This work is essential for the construction of peace which is one of the basic principles of the project. Peace is not just about laying down weapons. Peace means that people feel safe and see that they can live well in this territory in a sustainable and responsible way.”
Community mangrove restoration
With the leadership of the Bajo Mira y Frontera Community Council and the El Gran Sábalo Indigenous Reservation, the project works with these communities to restore more than 240 hectares of forests, particularly mangroves.
Years of exploitation and the growing impact of climate change are degrading these vital coastal guardians. Pacífico Biocultural strengthens awareness about these threats, provides training and also offers incentives for restoration activities of these ecosystems.
“It is the beginning of a great process self-managed by communities to restore mangroves using native species such as red mangrove and nato mangrove. This contributes to food security, income generation and the conservation of life and nature,” explains Angulo.
Mangroves, in addition to storing large amounts of carbon dioxide, are recognized for their resistance to both flooding and changes in salinity in water, which also makes them a vital tool for mitigation and adaptation to climate change. .
“The restoration benefits our community greatly. Entire mangrove forests have been cut down, and the animals we depend on to survive have declined. “Pianguas are no longer found like before,” explains Pamela Quiñones. “The larger the mangroves, the better they serve as a shield to prevent the sea from taking away our houses.”.
Peace through green business
The Pacific Biocultural project also promotes the construction of peace in communities through green businesses and sustainable endeavors such as bird watching and nature tourism. For example, the Bird-Mi Turismo que Conecta bird watching corridor, in which six multicultural communities participate, previously affected by the conflict and that extend from the foothills to the coast of Tumaco.
Within this corridor, the Awá El Gran Sábalo Indigenous Reservation has strengthened environmental monitoring of its “La Nutria” natural reserve. There, More than 420 bird species attract visitors and bird enthusiasts, and the reserve’s success reinforces the corridor’s rich biodiversity.
A few kilometers further towards the coast, the multiethnic community of El Pinde, made up mostly of mothers who lost their partners in the conflict, is working to restore the riverbanks and nature trails. Its goal is to attract diverse fauna and enrich the Bird-Mi corridor. This work not only provides them with alternative livelihoods, but also promotes peacebuilding through community-based nature tourism.
Procacao Tumatay is another inspiring example. This green company is transforming former coca cultivation lands, previously dedicated to illicit activities, into cocoa fields. Now, farmers work together to grow cocoa and then process it into high-quality chocolate products, boosting the value chain.
The Pacific Biocultural project, through these initiatives, trains, invests and empowers communities. It not only fosters peace and builds economic stability, but sows the seeds of a better future for the region and the planet.
Agri-food systems solutions are solutions for climate, biodiversity and land.
This story is part of a three-part series on climate, biodiversity and land solutions in Colombia. From the arid landscapes of La Guajira, where the FAO SCALA program supports climate resilience and food security, we moved to the Amazon rainforest, where a project from the FAO Green Climate Fund fights deforestation.
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